Відео

I started out with some 3in vacuum hose, but it got brittle on me in storage so I switched to a cheap 3" plastic coated aluminum flex duct thinking that might last longer. It worked good, but was pretty fragile. My next plan was to glue up some 3in pvc and fittings to make a hard line instead of using the flex, but I just happened to find some 3" flexible pipe that fit PERFECTLY and was long enough to allow me to eliminate that short hose between the box and my fog tube. Now I have the blower attached directly to the box outlet and my super long fog tube attaches directly to it. Unfortunately I have no idea where to find the same pipe like I'm currently using because I found it in a trash pile at work.

Yeah, the in-line blower is 3”. I’m going to try 4” flexible dryer duct, which snugs up against the in-line blower box and then try to connect that to the tote pvc exit somehow. I’m trying decide whether to use 3” or 4” pvc for the tote exit. I think you mentioned that you thought 4” would be better.

Yea, doing all 4" would probably make more sense and be easier to fit.

All depends on climate and sun exposure. Latex breaks down fastest under heat and direct sunlight. I've found a top coat of spar varnish can help a lot, but all latex will break down eventually. Embedding cloth or shop towel can also help add strength and prolong it's life. This one is somewhat shaded in his coffin, plus it will be in a shaded area so I expect to get at least 5 years before it needs repairs.

The old plastic corpsing saved me a lot of time as well. I didn't have to 100% redo the entire thing, just stripped it off the areas I wanted to improve and repaint everything else.

Just the two wires "+ and _" from the motor down through a hole in the table. The wires run along one of the branches of the table base to a 12v female plug at the very bottom where I connect the power supply. there is a 12v PWM speed control under the table (4:25 in the video), that allows me to control the speed at which the motor turns.

Sure is!

0.4 nozzle with matte pla + filament. They are still there, but very fine. I had to take care not to make them more visible when I stained and aged it. Did a light coat to get some color, went over it with a couple of coats of spar varnish to fill in the lines some, then did another heavier staining over that and a light coat of spar varnish. Used flat finish clear spray to knock that shine off you see at the beginning of the video.

@@OakLaneCemetery that’s really great if you only needed a couple of coats of spar varnish and then some matte finish, better than using fillers. Did you use a airbrush to spray the spar? So using the 0.2mm the lines would be even finer as well. I’m buying the machine I’m sold.

I think the main thing was using matte PLA, which made the layer lines less noticeable to begin with. The spar varnish worked in the same way Bondo spray primer or any other filler would have in that it was thick enough to blind over the layer lines and make them smoother for the next coat of finishing. I just brushed it over the first basic color layers, let it dry, then came back in with additional layers of staining to finish.

As long as the corpsing was done carefully and avoided attaching to the neck, or creating textures that would snag on the cloth it would be fine. I decided I wanted a look that was more of something that looked like the coffin had been opened for a while, which exposed the body to the elements and scavengers and sped up decomposition of the most exposed areas. If I ever tire of the look I can easily pop the head off and replace it with a corpsed one, or a jawless one in about 30 seconds. The way I made the drive was so that I can even disconnect the pipe at either end and remove the whole motor box for repairs or upgrades.

Yep. I'll add links both the skull and hands to the description. Forgot to credit for those.

Adding ice will greatly reduce the mister's ability to create mist. It has an optimum operating temperature range and going below that causes it to not work as well. The whole point of this is to get away from using ice and by adding ice you will just be creating a big, inefficient ice chiller and probably damage a $100 mister head. Ultrasonic chillers needs no additional help. They already work far better than any home made ice chiller ever made.

The House Of Hydro talks about temperature and misters here - ua-cam.com/video/C8D-g9EPXXY/v-deo.htmlsi=D4Kua_f9nIXfNT7X

It is a pvc connector that's slightly too big for the 1/2" pipe so it allows the pipe to slip through. I just drilled out a snug hole in the 2x4 and pounded the adaptor into it with a mallet.

That is a prop turner mechanism from Spider Hill Prop Works. I'm finding that sometimes it's worth it to just buy a nice smooth pre-built mechanism than it is to spend hours making one myself. All I had to do was attach the prop turner and my wiper motor to a mounting plate and it's good to go.

@@OakLaneCemetery Nice ! I'm building a few dummies for the yard this year and I just wanted basic Head movement. thanks :)

That is an AAXA Halloween projector I was sent to evaluate and review. It's a solid little projector, borderline for doing window projections, but great for smaller areas like my spider scene. It is not recommended for outdoor use, but I keep it covered and sheltered and bring it in if the forecast calls for rain. - amzn.to/3V6Tfhp

@@OakLaneCemetery Thanks!

About 5 minutes before I gave up and just coated it with a thick layer of clear coat to make it smooth. lol Up close you can see some layer lines in the stain and aging wash, but at 5 or 6 feet nobody will notice.

Only the turning mech is spider hill. Everything else I slapped together. Did they add a version with a speed control? I didn't even look, just went straight to what I needed and ordered. lol